Updates.

I wish I had some tastefully artful things to say right now, but my creativity has been a little bit on the fritz this past month due to stress. Things are getting better, though, and I've been really forcing myself to play around with color again. 

Fabrics were bought this past week which I'm super excited about... and there are plenty of deadlines to be met. I've gotten some questions about commissions and am excited to really dive head first into that. I've also been inspired a lot by some of Miss Pandora's recent modeling posts which have really gotten my drawing hand back to practicing- I've missed it all very much. 

Looking forward to a trip out of town, too! I can't wait to post about it-- it's going to be an amazing adventure. 

Under the Weather and Comforts

• Being back at school has actually been a great thing. I've missed the structure, missed having things to do that aren't necessarily related to my day-to-day tasks. I know a lot of people don't miss going to college classes, but sometimes they can be a salvation. Having a book to read, an essay to write, or being forced to think outside of the box-- it is helping me a lot right now, especially since this past month has been the most stressful of my entire life. Ergonomics class is actually really challenging...
• My iPad is great! It's lovely having something to be able to help me with my school work. I've uploaded my textbooks onto it so I can read while on public transport-- though I'm sure it makes me look like a crazy woman whenever the muni doors open- looking around all crazy. I will take only minor, acceptable risks, but I don't want to be mugged. Regardless, I bought a 5$, cheapie stylus to start playing with drawing apps... only to lose it the following day. Remind me to only use cheap styluses instead of investing in a nice Wacom one. I'm surprised my handwriting with the tip of my finger isn't completely illegible. 
• I haven't sewn in a long time-- it's actually really depressing. The last thing I made was my iPad case... and that was just because I needed to be able to take it around with me the day I bought it. BUT, I was able to use a BEAUTIFUL Liberty of London fabric: Spring 2012 Picardie, designed by Phil Kim-- and based on the inspiration of A Clockwork Orange. My first time working with Liberty-- and it was amazing. I was able to score a fat quarter amount from Etsy and it was a dream to work with... I can't wait to incorporate more of this iconic fabric into my life! But besides all that, I'm actually in dire straights: I need new clothes but haven't been sewing a damn thing. I'm hoping to start changing that next week. 

2013 Project Ideas

Ah, so much sewing and knitting and so little time!

I've been keeping an eye on pattern websites like a hawk-- any time something is updated, I rush over to see what the Big 4 (+BurdaStyle) have released... and don't even get me started on Ravelry!

I think that for 2013, I'll be trying to make myself a new garment every couple weeks- I want to aim for 2 a month. After vowing to NEVER BUY A PAIR OF JEANS AGAIN, EVER-- I need to really revitalize my wardrobe- otherwise I'll wear out what I have left pretty quickly. My mother disagrees with my philosophy overall, though. She says jeans don't lie and are a surefire way to keep track of my weight.

Regardless of all that, I'm happy to say that I'm happy with most of my closet-- I've been thinning it out and have a huge pile of things that need to be donated or sold. Making my own clothes, though? That will keep it curated and me happy. Besides, I'm frankly starting to get bored of things and need new pieces.

Here are a few patterns that look really nice and I HOPE I can make, time allowing. You can follow my Pinterest board with all my sewing ideas, though!

BurdaStyle Princess Sheath 01-2013 #107

How beautiful is this?! This dress would most certainly require getting my FBA down using princess seams, but why not? It'd be a challenge and I'm sure the toile stage will be a long one. But it's so classy and beautiful! I would love a version in pink like the model--- but a dark, heathered grey wool? The color scheme might even blend in nicely here in SF.

BurdaStyle Side Panel Dress 01-2013 #102A

Definitely not my normal style dress, but I think I could make it work. Most RTW in this style don't fit me AT ALL--- but if I'm making it myself- it could be a complete difference. I would raise the waist line to fit my natural waist--- rather than my high hips (as is usually the case :/ )-- and maybe flare it out a bit more for the hips as well. Plus being able to make my own waist tie in proportion to my actual waist? Perfect idea. I think this dress would look great in Pantone's Grayed Jade-- very seasonal.

Butterick B5814

I love how this would be absolutely PERFECT for Valentine's Day! Yes, it might be the sample colors, but damn it, it's the truth! I've never worked with boning so it'd definitely be a learning experience-- but I can imagine making this in red or black and it looking absolutely sexy and stunning. Here in the city I would most certainly need a great cape to match it, too. But I can totally picture myself in something as sultry!

McCall's M5525

A lot of the designs on this particular pattern are great... but I actually only really want the traditional trenchcoat design-- how bratty is that?! The yellow one is also kind of nice-- the neckline is lovely. But frankly, I've wanted a traditional trench for YEARS. I've never owned one-- and as much as I want the tried and true Burberry--- right now I can only dream! There are some really great ones out there--- the one I would LOVE from Burberry is trimmed in leather. I'm sure I can arrange that in my own handmade version...! Somehow, making it myself, and possibly spending 80$+ on materials--- I'm happy with it. The possibilities are more rewarding, I feel. 

Anthropologie Ascot Bow Scarf

78$? Anthropologie, you must be trippin'!! I checked out this scarf in person, and the real-life version is most certainly not that rewarding. The scarf was very scratching and not particular warm and cuddly... Wool and acrylic? Really? I know it can help the bow keep its shape, but I wouldn't pay 80$ for something as uncomfortable. I can't imagine this scarf needing more than 300 yards. I'm thinking of an alpaca, cotton blend with a sturdy hand--- and in this color. The stitching is super simple, too, so I know I could finish it quickly. The bow itself needs some wrangling, though, and some good clasps to keep it together. Momentary engineering feat, of course, but otherwise, a great rewarding project that I know would work with SO MANY of my outfits. It fits right in and I'd look great in it!

Overall, I'm really looking forward to all the great ideas floating in my mind for 2013. My skills have developed so much over this past year-- I'm actually really proud of what I've learned in 2012. I honestly can't wait to be a better seamstress next year. Who knows all the new skills I'm going to learn?

New Project: Watercolor Blues Dress

Project Title: Watercolor Blues Dress
Short Project Description: White and Blue JSK with matching boucle bolero.
Projected Deadline: March 31st
Pattern(s) Used: For the JSK, the bodice pattern from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing "Sultry Sheath", rectangle skirt. For the bolero, Simplicity 1780
Materials Needed: JSK: White with blue undertone fabric with a beautiful drape, dark blue satin for bow + cartridge ruffle trim + under trim, underlining fabric, white satin for cartridge trim. Bolero: light blue + white boucle. Sew in or iron-on pearls, standard notions.
Challenges/Obstacles: This one will most certainly be an uphill battle! Not to say that's a bad thing--- just that I'm absolutely certain that this dress is going to be a big one. I don't expect to find the right shades of fabric right away and will probably have to just worry about one piece at a time. I think the white dress fabric will probably be the most difficult to source. I'm looking for something with a solid, but beautiful drape with cool undertones... which are hard to look at in a fabric store if it doesn't have good lighting. The colors I'm looking for are more viewable in my Pinterest board dedicated to brainstorming on the dress~ you can check that out here.

I may end up settling for something white with a silver-ish brocade finish. The ruffles aren't hard, just time consuming, even with a ruffling foot. Also, lots of hand sewing in my future with a design incorporating pearl beading. The bolero is more of an after thought, I think... It would be a great addition to just my normal ward robe so I haven't decided the length of it yet. Plus I've never worked with something as un-ravelry as boucle, so it'll be interesting. That will need it's own lining and learning new finishing techniques as well.

I actually have quite a few things on my plate right now, so this is one of those projects I just want to work on with no pressure. I really would like to make myself at least two new pencil skirts (like my Speckled Skirt) for work and general use--- while working on this dress set. I also have some things I'm whipping up for the Etsy shop. The March 31st deadline is a good one because that gives me plenty of time to hand sew everything in and actually feel like I've redeemed myself from my Falling into Autumn disaster! I know quite a few people really liked that one, but I know I can do better and I've learned so many new techniques that will make the issues I had seem like a thing of the past...!

Romantic Looks with just a Touch of Cruelty.

I'm not going to lie-- I love Chanel. No, I don't care for the uber-fashionistas and the people who wear it as only a status symbol (don't get me started!). I really just love the couture sewing and the tradition that goes into it- I'm such a sucker for technique!

Here are a few of my favorites from the Chanel Pre-Fall 2013 (all images from Style.com)

I maybe wouldn't wear the particular cut of the jacket-- but I really like the trim and color combination. Maybe if the suit were more "square" on the bottom hem it'd be a bit more Me... Still, though, it really fits the collection's Scottish influence. Even though there's no tartan on the coat, the trim really fools the eye into thinking that.

The paned slops portion is pushing it a little bit-- but in all honesty I am in absolute love with the rich textures in the entire look! Even the tights look as if they could be textured. The jacket might be over the top by just a little bit-- but I think the design could be "toned down" for a street-wear look. I like the peplum and "caplet" feel of the shoulders, too.

I really wonder where the blouse influence came from... Regardless of that, just looking at it makes me feel warm and comfortable. I think the broach and belt were a great touch. There's also something really interesting happening in the skirt/slops portion-- I can't tell if there are extra panels in there or not!

What a fabulous jacket! The boucle pattern is great for fall and for the winter without looking too Christmas. I think if the black portions had been gold, it'd be a different story... Regardless, it also reminds me of something Vivienne Westwood would have designed, with texture. The little fur wrist cuffs are kind of cute, too.  

How amazing is this coat!? The boucle looks absolutely luscious and I'm sure the picture doesn't do justice to how it feels against the skin. I really can't wait to see close up pictures of it (hurry and update, Chanel iPhone app!)-- because it looks stunning. Taking out the (cute and fun) shoulder pads, I think it could be worked into a day-to-day jacket. I think placement of the horizontal trim stripes would also be important to the height of the wearer.

The video below is an interview with Karl Lagerfeld about the collection-- a few of the looks I posted about are modeled in there, too. 

Yes, Yukatas are Cute.

SF Cherry Blossom Festival? It's still 4+ months away. For the last two years, though, I've been lamenting how much I would like to make a yukata to wear for the festival! 

I'm not normally into such traditional clothing, but I've always wanted a kimono and yukata. I'm well aware that I would really never have a need for it besides "just for funsies"-- but damn it, this will be the year! 

I promised myself that I would make one and I'm determined to start thinking about the look I'm going for and sourcing fabric. How hard could it be? Well, I'm sure quite hard if I don't find a decent pattern or tutorial... And yes, I will wear the little shoes and all!

Browsing Spoonflower, I've decided a few things about the fabric: I want unconventional, beautiful, happy fabric that I could use for multiple seasons. Also, I'm VERY MUCH looking forward to mixing and matching different prints... I imagine it to be nothing but fun!

Cassie's Coral Roses by twobloom

Texas Modern Crop Squares Coral by jacinda

cestlaviv red ball by c'est la viv

Overall, I'm kind of on the fence about the sort of sewing pattern I would like to use to make it. On one hand, the shapes are simple and straight forward on a yukata-- I could probably draft my own and just go with it. On the other hand, A LOT of things could go horrendously wrong and maybe I should just invest in a traditional pattern. I'm not sure... but I'll figure it out. 

A Little Lipstick Never Hurt Anybody

So soon for a rant post? Not even!

While browsing the beautiful interwebs, I've come to a conclusion about the majority of vintage sewing pattern posts I've seen: I'm vastly disappointed in people not living some of those outfits up!

Now, I will attest that when it comes to taking pictures in a semi-completed toile, there's no need for fancy and flare to take a picture that merely shows that "hey- the pattern is boxy and needs taking in here-and-here.". But when the outfit is done? Take it up a notch! Wear that vintage dress like it's intended!

Maybe it's just my feelings about dressing up and being womanly in that way... maybe Dita has just rubbed off on me. Who knows. BUT:

(originally from an ad about deodorant!)

OK, I know it's politically incorrect, but I will admit that's how I (generally) feel about these sorts of things. Now, I'm aware that some people don't have the time, money, patience, or all of the aforementioned abilities to make that vintage dress POP. But if you're taking the time to recreate such an amazing garment, you have to put in the effort for you to look amazing in it, too!

This is something that is brought up constantly in the lolita circles: if you're going to own a 400$ dress, you have better do more than just wash your hair and put on some lipgloss to make that dress shine. The dress isn't what makes you a lolita- it's everything that goes along with it.

Now, I was debating using some poor unfortunate woman or girl's photo to illustrate my point... but that's not really what this rant is about. I'm not trying to attack anybody- I'm trying to stress the point that you should always try and look your best if you are putting yourself out there to shine!

Take this Vintage Vogue pattern, V8686:

It's a VERY classic style and the illustration is absolutely gorgeous. But if left in the hands of someone who may not want to style themselves properly to fit it? It could be disastrous! I'm not against "wearing your own thing, your own way"- but it could have so much potential!

A great fascinator hat- pearl necklace- t-strap shoes- full hair and makeup- little gloves and some bright red lipstick? Sounds fabulous! Heck, even the model in the Vogue Patterns site looks quite nice! (I probably would not have picked that brown/green color, but hey!) 

In the mean time, though, I'm sure I will have to continue to appreciate some seamstresses' amazing stitch work--- but try and block out their lack of attempt at making the outfit work as a cohesive style piece. Honorable mention to Sew Weekly, though. Most of those ladies really take these pieces and run! (I particularly always love Mena's and Loran's amazing frocks!)

That Speckled Skirt Update #1

Taking my time much?

I'm actually really happy that I am taking my sweet time with this project. The last thing I need is to be stressed out about something I should be heartily enjoying. I bought the fabric days before I posted about it here-- and have just barely started cutting yesterday.

Cutting is actually my least favorite part of sewing (and from what I hear about others, many agree). It's boring and tedious and never seems to end. It didn't help that for the longest it would be a laborious process of sweeping and moping the wooden floor of the kitchen and having to crawl around on my hands and knees. And then the cuts would be warped because of this! I have a kitchen table now--- and it helps A LOT.

The toile fitting went surprisingly well! I knew within a couple minutes of trying it on that the pattern fit me correctly and I wouldn't have to do very many changes. My 5'3" petite frame poses a lot of fitting issues and I'm SO HAPPY I had to do only ONE change: narrow the bottom hem.

Having chicken legs means that most pencil skirts fit me like a straight cylinder. Curvaceous fit? I can only dream that about RTW!

Either way, I took in the pattern about 4" on the bottom hem and even then it's just BARELY starting to look more "shapely". I'm telling you- chicken legs!

I've cut out the fashion fabric and am about to work on the interlining (which in after thought, I should have done first...!)

Either way, slow and steady wins the race. I think this pace is making sure I'm not stressed out or angry when I'm sewing and that's better in the long run when I start freaking out over mismatched seams and whatnot.

Still haven't gotten my seam binding and I suspect I need to buy more interfacing for the waist band, but all in due time, I suppose.

New Project: That Speckled Skirt

I'm very excited to start working on this skirt! I'm very aware that the skirt is going to be "straight forward"-- in some techniques. But certainly not all, I will say.

New techniques I'm trying:

• Underlining
• Lapped zipper
• Slip stitch
• Sewing with seam binding

It took a little digging around at a local fabric warehouse, but I found my fabrics! The teal is my underlining and the fabric on the bottom seems to be a wool-blend that is actually black with white speckles. It's classic without looking too "suit-y". I also ordered some neutral, warm colored seam binding from Etsy-- and wow, what a great set of colors are available for this stuff! I'll probably use the lightest color for this particular project.

This skirt requires a single button to tie up the back of the waist band and I'm actually really torn as to which I'm going to use! I know that sounds lame, but after lamenting not having enough buttons a few months back, now I have quite a collection!

5$ button grab bags at Britex Fabrics? Oh yes. I've gone in twice now in the last few months and bought two bags each time... and I'll just say it took me at least two hours to sort them all and get them properly stored by color! 

The button in the foreground, the off-white one with the 4 black hairline lines? That's the one I'm thinking for this project-- it'll match my seam binding! But who knows? Maybe I'll swing by Britex again before I finish the skirt and come home with more buttons to decide between.

But first up, toile (which I'd like to start using instead of muslin- so much more classy!). I've traced my pattern all ready but we'll see how the first version comes out. I all ready have a feeling I may need to move a dart or two around...

Watercolor Blues and Lush Textures

So now that my Falling into Autumn Dress is finally done, I'm starting to think about the sort of aesthetic I want to tackle in regards to a solid Christmas/Winter dress. I think I also really have to get better about stockpiling accessories and the things that make a lolita dress "complete". I've always somehow managed to be a seamstress that just focuses on the garment, accessories be damned!

Anyway, I've started a board on Pinterest for the dress so please feel free to follow it!

When I told an acquaintance that I wanted to do a blue/white color scheme the response I got was "That's very Jewish."-- and I get it- the colors are very Hanukkah. But that's not the blue I want to go with! I'm thinking something more like dark, deep blue, and like water color blue. If I could hand dye the fabric and make it look like sea salt and blue water color, it'd make me happy. Granted, I doubt I'll be able to do that for such a project and have it turn out well, the mental image is perfect.

There's really no snow in San Francisco... but I think cold, deep winter is the image I am striving for. And texture. Lots of texture. Gauze? Tea dyed eyelet lace? I don't want to go as so far as making it look too "period" or steampunk. But crisp white would be too "perfect". I want weathered and cold-- yet beautiful and delicate. This would also make the makeup fun to apply: a purple and blue toned ruby lip, like blood in snow. Silver grey eyes and a cold-kissed cheek with a pale touch.

Either way, I think I've decided on using Moi-meme-Moitie's general design from the Iron Gate OP. I'm not sure if I want full sleeves, but at the very least half sleeves. The more I think of it, the more the prospect of an off white, chiffon sleeved dress, with grey blue trim and ribbons sounds amazing. Blue lace tights and satin dark blue shoes and accessories.

Exciting!

The Possibilities are ENDLESS!

I'm absolutely excited!

I recently received my Amazon Black Friday splurge: Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing. After being a fan of Gertie's blog for a long time, I took the plunge and finally bought her book (which I've wanted since even before it came out!) Needlessly said: worth every single penny.

The book was everything I hoped and expected of it: a solid resource for vintage sewing, with an intermediate seamstress in mind. It has tons of new skills I haven't learned or dabbled in yet and is a great transition into working towards Expert Mode. After having owned and looked through tons of beginner sewing books in the past, it's great to know it's not a "how to thread your sewing machine" sort of book; it assumes you all ready know the basics. I now have a really strong "dictionary" to cover all the questions I generally have when I work on my own clothing and clears up most fitting issues I've faced (and is a great starting off point into tailoring.)

In terms of cons, maybe more pictures? But even that is stretching it. In this modern day and age, I recognize this is a resource for me to quickly look things up. If I have more questions, I'll know with certainty what I'm looking for in a Youtube tutorial video or in a search. I also am not a huge fan of the type of book binding... but that's just a personal pet peeve because I don't want the pages to be damaged in use. BUT, I'm looking forward to writing all over this book with my findings through the coming years: this is a keeper!

The patterns are all really great as well-- and I'm looking forward to knocking each one of them out in time. While maybe the color schemes in all of them may not have been my cup of tea... I think each pattern has potential in its own way and I am sure can be adapted to me and my life.

First up? The pencil skirt!

I'm all ready thinking of fabrics I would want this skirt in... I'll definitely need at least 4 or 5 of these-- they're all ready one of my wardrobe staples! (especially since I'm officially down to only TWO pairs of jeans!) I need a ton of these in some good suiting fabric...

And of course, some amazing Linton tweeds. Yes, yes, I know these run for £30 per meter... (nearly 50$ per yard-- basically), but it'd be awesome to have something "solid" and "grown up." And if I ever make myself my Chanel-inspired jacket, the skirt would be a must have for a full suit!

I also found this Victorian Maiden "Charlotte Mermaid" skirt I could probably recreate with the pattern.

Now, this book is certainly not the be-all-end-all, but for starting to really incorporate more hand sewing and couture techniques, it's a great resource.

Completed Project: Falling into Autumn Dress

Finally. It's finally done!

Completed Sewing Project: Cherry Print Wiggle Dress

I'm actually really proud at how busy and motivated I've been in the last few weeks- it feels amazing. I know a lot of people don't necessarily see being busy as being a good thing... but I'm happy because I'm getting so much done, all the time. Lots of projects under my belt, lots more on the table. I think also starting to have a dedicated sewing space has helped!

My most recent project is for my upcoming birthday party!

The above picture is an in-progress, but it's completed now and basically looks... like the above pictures! Sans the white basting lines. I still haven't worn it out yet, though, so cute pictures haven't been taken.

But a cherry dress? Oh yes. This is after scouring Joann's Fabrics for a lemon print like I posted about a few weeks ago. I see this as a practice run for that dress, however! After making this dress, I'm hoping round two is a little more precise with less random pulling and seams that match up a little bit better. It's probably a good thing that this print is so busy- most of my mistakes aren't visible unless you're looking for them! (...but I know they're there!)

Anyway, I used a combination of McCall's M5972 (from my SpringGreen dress, but I used the pencil skirt portion) and M6557 (for the bodice).

I lucked out with the bodice because it was originally designed for petites so that was one issue down. I still had to do a FBA which was interesting considering the pleating at the center front. I kind of winged it, though, and it turned out better than I had anticipated!

Next I attempt this dress (with a lemon print, damn it!), I'll probably be changing the size of the pleats because they didn't match up the other seams somewhere along the way... but either way, with a quick FBA, the bodice was perfect. 

Fall Outfit Planning

So since I'm planning on having all my outfits handmade/vintage/second hand, I figure it'd be fun to list out what sorts of things I'd like to do for the fall, including the patterns I would like to use and buy and blahblah. Though to be honest, the most annoying part of the entire thing is finding the correct patterned fabric... Hmph. I really just have to find cool places to source from.

Fall 2012 - Lemon Tree by aquavert featuring slip on shoes

How fun is that lemon print? I found a place in Berkeley earlier this year that has amazing fruit prints and I'm 99% sure they have something similar to this fun lemon-y print! With some cute flats, cross-body little bag, cardigan and scarf? Perfect for a day off. The pattern I found (McCall's M6557) is probably the closest that I could find that's still in print... with a modified pencil skirt piece, I think it'd be pretty simple. The trick might be after I my FBA, being able to add the keyhole zipper top... Not necessary, but I think it'd be adorable. Also, it fits in with one of my favorite colors from Fall 2012 Pantone color: Honey Gold.

Fall 2012: Blues and Greens by aquavert featuring high heels

I've never made anything with a collar so this one would be interesting, I think. Still though, for something a little more dressy, this one would be fun. Semi-dressy. And definitely not in khaki: I want Olympian Blue or Aquamarine Green. I think contrasting tights, shoulder bag, trench coat, little boots? It reminds me of rain, but in a happy way.

Fall 2012: Cool Weather and Cute by aquavert featuring oxford shoes

Not exactly the same, but I think a simple sash belt and matching peter pan collar is a piece of cake. I'm not sure I would add the contrast color to the button area, but more than likely would. The breast pocket flaps- no. I don't need more attention called to that area! As for the colors, Rose Smoke and French Roast! I think a beautiful fabric with a delicate design in those colors would be simple for me to match in my closet. Matching accessories like a (handmade!!) chunky cable sweater, fedora or felt hat, black tights and flats.

As of right now I have the sewing pattern from the last set-- so I'm really excited about that. Considering I have a lot of sewing projects going on, I won't be making that soon... but probably starting in September I'll start picking away at these ideas.