Suppleness of Color and Accessories.

I'm so happy the semester is nearly over. I didn't do as many fashion illustrations as I had expected, but at least I somewhat still have my touch. 

Recently I decided to start pursuing my interest in Dolly Kei fashion which I've been a fan of for some time... but it adds to my FRUMPY-ness. Unless I do it right. As one of my fashionable acquaintances (ikillbarbies) said... "you all ready sorta dress like that- you just need more stuff for your stuff!" I think she's right- I just need more stuff for my stuff.

And by stuff for my stuff, that means more necklaces, hats and hair pieces, printed unique tights and leggings, and miscellaneous pieces like brooches, wallets, purses, etc. I all ready dress in the color scheme most of the time... this isn't a stretch. But I agree, more stuff for my stuff. 

Body Image and "curves officially in fashion"

Weight and size have come up a few times in the last few days and I feel it's something that should at least deserve a mention here on my blog. I will start out by saying that I really don't think I have weight issues: I'm not trying to be super thin, I don't want a size 28 waist, I don't look at a picture of a model and dream about how wonderful my life would be if only I was thinner. Granted, there are things I feel I could change about myself-- but I generally only think that in a concrit sort of way. My weight and size is only really brought up in the most practical ways as in sizing and pattern: do I cut out a size 12 pattern piece or a size 14? And even those sizes are up for debate!

Reading articles about Plus Size fashion shows really throws me for a loop, though. I honestly have so many thoughts on this issue, I wouldn't even know where to begin! One of my friends recently forwarded me this article about a fashion show dedicated to women over the standard model size. To be honest, even though I am most certainly not a size 0 (or 2!)-- I'm kind of offended by the entire thing. And not even in a PC sort of way. I just think that sort of show is really unnecessary. Heck, even calling it "Plus Sized Weekend" is ridiculous to me. Are we trying to incorporate these women into the fold? Or are we trying to further differentiate them from other models? To me, it honestly stems from a pervasive Millennial culture of everyone-needs-a-trophy.

There really is no need for a separate show. I just think the two types of shows should be combined.

Taking my fashion education (if there's such a thing) into consideration, I think a lot of the "problem" with bone-thin models is the culture of design. It's easier to design for skeletons. Literally. People not privy to the background of fashion design take it personally ("idolizing the thin", etc.) But look at it this way: the fashion figure is 9-10 heads tall. Designers want models to be as close to those proportions as possible. Anything that deviates from that figure is more than just "off". It throws the design off. I don't think it's necessarily an attack on the fat. It's just everyone's jelly rolls are different and designers want to show a standard design.

I'm most certainly sure there is a designer or two who hate the fatty-chans. Magazines, yes. They can "idolize the thin" but that affects my life very little. My world involves looking at pre-measured pieces and making them to fit my body by manipulating the shapes. I don't think clothes judge people... or the shapes or the numbers. If I'm making a garment from the ground up, I can make it do what I want it to do.

The next issue to address would be vanity sizing. And well, that's just unhelpful all around...

Romantic Looks with just a Touch of Cruelty.

I'm not going to lie-- I love Chanel. No, I don't care for the uber-fashionistas and the people who wear it as only a status symbol (don't get me started!). I really just love the couture sewing and the tradition that goes into it- I'm such a sucker for technique!

Here are a few of my favorites from the Chanel Pre-Fall 2013 (all images from Style.com)

I maybe wouldn't wear the particular cut of the jacket-- but I really like the trim and color combination. Maybe if the suit were more "square" on the bottom hem it'd be a bit more Me... Still, though, it really fits the collection's Scottish influence. Even though there's no tartan on the coat, the trim really fools the eye into thinking that.

The paned slops portion is pushing it a little bit-- but in all honesty I am in absolute love with the rich textures in the entire look! Even the tights look as if they could be textured. The jacket might be over the top by just a little bit-- but I think the design could be "toned down" for a street-wear look. I like the peplum and "caplet" feel of the shoulders, too.

I really wonder where the blouse influence came from... Regardless of that, just looking at it makes me feel warm and comfortable. I think the broach and belt were a great touch. There's also something really interesting happening in the skirt/slops portion-- I can't tell if there are extra panels in there or not!

What a fabulous jacket! The boucle pattern is great for fall and for the winter without looking too Christmas. I think if the black portions had been gold, it'd be a different story... Regardless, it also reminds me of something Vivienne Westwood would have designed, with texture. The little fur wrist cuffs are kind of cute, too.  

How amazing is this coat!? The boucle looks absolutely luscious and I'm sure the picture doesn't do justice to how it feels against the skin. I really can't wait to see close up pictures of it (hurry and update, Chanel iPhone app!)-- because it looks stunning. Taking out the (cute and fun) shoulder pads, I think it could be worked into a day-to-day jacket. I think placement of the horizontal trim stripes would also be important to the height of the wearer.

The video below is an interview with Karl Lagerfeld about the collection-- a few of the looks I posted about are modeled in there, too. 

New Project: That Speckled Skirt

I'm very excited to start working on this skirt! I'm very aware that the skirt is going to be "straight forward"-- in some techniques. But certainly not all, I will say.

New techniques I'm trying:

• Underlining
• Lapped zipper
• Slip stitch
• Sewing with seam binding

It took a little digging around at a local fabric warehouse, but I found my fabrics! The teal is my underlining and the fabric on the bottom seems to be a wool-blend that is actually black with white speckles. It's classic without looking too "suit-y". I also ordered some neutral, warm colored seam binding from Etsy-- and wow, what a great set of colors are available for this stuff! I'll probably use the lightest color for this particular project.

This skirt requires a single button to tie up the back of the waist band and I'm actually really torn as to which I'm going to use! I know that sounds lame, but after lamenting not having enough buttons a few months back, now I have quite a collection!

5$ button grab bags at Britex Fabrics? Oh yes. I've gone in twice now in the last few months and bought two bags each time... and I'll just say it took me at least two hours to sort them all and get them properly stored by color! 

The button in the foreground, the off-white one with the 4 black hairline lines? That's the one I'm thinking for this project-- it'll match my seam binding! But who knows? Maybe I'll swing by Britex again before I finish the skirt and come home with more buttons to decide between.

But first up, toile (which I'd like to start using instead of muslin- so much more classy!). I've traced my pattern all ready but we'll see how the first version comes out. I all ready have a feeling I may need to move a dart or two around...

Watercolor Blues and Lush Textures

So now that my Falling into Autumn Dress is finally done, I'm starting to think about the sort of aesthetic I want to tackle in regards to a solid Christmas/Winter dress. I think I also really have to get better about stockpiling accessories and the things that make a lolita dress "complete". I've always somehow managed to be a seamstress that just focuses on the garment, accessories be damned!

Anyway, I've started a board on Pinterest for the dress so please feel free to follow it!

When I told an acquaintance that I wanted to do a blue/white color scheme the response I got was "That's very Jewish."-- and I get it- the colors are very Hanukkah. But that's not the blue I want to go with! I'm thinking something more like dark, deep blue, and like water color blue. If I could hand dye the fabric and make it look like sea salt and blue water color, it'd make me happy. Granted, I doubt I'll be able to do that for such a project and have it turn out well, the mental image is perfect.

There's really no snow in San Francisco... but I think cold, deep winter is the image I am striving for. And texture. Lots of texture. Gauze? Tea dyed eyelet lace? I don't want to go as so far as making it look too "period" or steampunk. But crisp white would be too "perfect". I want weathered and cold-- yet beautiful and delicate. This would also make the makeup fun to apply: a purple and blue toned ruby lip, like blood in snow. Silver grey eyes and a cold-kissed cheek with a pale touch.

Either way, I think I've decided on using Moi-meme-Moitie's general design from the Iron Gate OP. I'm not sure if I want full sleeves, but at the very least half sleeves. The more I think of it, the more the prospect of an off white, chiffon sleeved dress, with grey blue trim and ribbons sounds amazing. Blue lace tights and satin dark blue shoes and accessories.

Exciting!

The Possibilities are ENDLESS!

I'm absolutely excited!

I recently received my Amazon Black Friday splurge: Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing. After being a fan of Gertie's blog for a long time, I took the plunge and finally bought her book (which I've wanted since even before it came out!) Needlessly said: worth every single penny.

The book was everything I hoped and expected of it: a solid resource for vintage sewing, with an intermediate seamstress in mind. It has tons of new skills I haven't learned or dabbled in yet and is a great transition into working towards Expert Mode. After having owned and looked through tons of beginner sewing books in the past, it's great to know it's not a "how to thread your sewing machine" sort of book; it assumes you all ready know the basics. I now have a really strong "dictionary" to cover all the questions I generally have when I work on my own clothing and clears up most fitting issues I've faced (and is a great starting off point into tailoring.)

In terms of cons, maybe more pictures? But even that is stretching it. In this modern day and age, I recognize this is a resource for me to quickly look things up. If I have more questions, I'll know with certainty what I'm looking for in a Youtube tutorial video or in a search. I also am not a huge fan of the type of book binding... but that's just a personal pet peeve because I don't want the pages to be damaged in use. BUT, I'm looking forward to writing all over this book with my findings through the coming years: this is a keeper!

The patterns are all really great as well-- and I'm looking forward to knocking each one of them out in time. While maybe the color schemes in all of them may not have been my cup of tea... I think each pattern has potential in its own way and I am sure can be adapted to me and my life.

First up? The pencil skirt!

I'm all ready thinking of fabrics I would want this skirt in... I'll definitely need at least 4 or 5 of these-- they're all ready one of my wardrobe staples! (especially since I'm officially down to only TWO pairs of jeans!) I need a ton of these in some good suiting fabric...

And of course, some amazing Linton tweeds. Yes, yes, I know these run for £30 per meter... (nearly 50$ per yard-- basically), but it'd be awesome to have something "solid" and "grown up." And if I ever make myself my Chanel-inspired jacket, the skirt would be a must have for a full suit!

I also found this Victorian Maiden "Charlotte Mermaid" skirt I could probably recreate with the pattern.

Now, this book is certainly not the be-all-end-all, but for starting to really incorporate more hand sewing and couture techniques, it's a great resource.

Spring 2013 RTW likes so far~

I honestly can't keep up with all fashion shows during all the different fashion weeks- even if I tried! I went through and looked at the collections of some of my favorite design houses and it's no surprise what sort of looks I like! Frankly, I'm absolutely looking forward to the goodies that will be shown in Paris in a couple weeks- it's like Christmas!

Alice + Olivia

Anna Sui

Completed Sewing Project: Cherry Print Wiggle Dress

I'm actually really proud at how busy and motivated I've been in the last few weeks- it feels amazing. I know a lot of people don't necessarily see being busy as being a good thing... but I'm happy because I'm getting so much done, all the time. Lots of projects under my belt, lots more on the table. I think also starting to have a dedicated sewing space has helped!

My most recent project is for my upcoming birthday party!

The above picture is an in-progress, but it's completed now and basically looks... like the above pictures! Sans the white basting lines. I still haven't worn it out yet, though, so cute pictures haven't been taken.

But a cherry dress? Oh yes. This is after scouring Joann's Fabrics for a lemon print like I posted about a few weeks ago. I see this as a practice run for that dress, however! After making this dress, I'm hoping round two is a little more precise with less random pulling and seams that match up a little bit better. It's probably a good thing that this print is so busy- most of my mistakes aren't visible unless you're looking for them! (...but I know they're there!)

Anyway, I used a combination of McCall's M5972 (from my SpringGreen dress, but I used the pencil skirt portion) and M6557 (for the bodice).

I lucked out with the bodice because it was originally designed for petites so that was one issue down. I still had to do a FBA which was interesting considering the pleating at the center front. I kind of winged it, though, and it turned out better than I had anticipated!

Next I attempt this dress (with a lemon print, damn it!), I'll probably be changing the size of the pleats because they didn't match up the other seams somewhere along the way... but either way, with a quick FBA, the bodice was perfect. 

Fall Outfit Planning

So since I'm planning on having all my outfits handmade/vintage/second hand, I figure it'd be fun to list out what sorts of things I'd like to do for the fall, including the patterns I would like to use and buy and blahblah. Though to be honest, the most annoying part of the entire thing is finding the correct patterned fabric... Hmph. I really just have to find cool places to source from.

Fall 2012 - Lemon Tree by aquavert featuring slip on shoes

How fun is that lemon print? I found a place in Berkeley earlier this year that has amazing fruit prints and I'm 99% sure they have something similar to this fun lemon-y print! With some cute flats, cross-body little bag, cardigan and scarf? Perfect for a day off. The pattern I found (McCall's M6557) is probably the closest that I could find that's still in print... with a modified pencil skirt piece, I think it'd be pretty simple. The trick might be after I my FBA, being able to add the keyhole zipper top... Not necessary, but I think it'd be adorable. Also, it fits in with one of my favorite colors from Fall 2012 Pantone color: Honey Gold.

Fall 2012: Blues and Greens by aquavert featuring high heels

I've never made anything with a collar so this one would be interesting, I think. Still though, for something a little more dressy, this one would be fun. Semi-dressy. And definitely not in khaki: I want Olympian Blue or Aquamarine Green. I think contrasting tights, shoulder bag, trench coat, little boots? It reminds me of rain, but in a happy way.

Fall 2012: Cool Weather and Cute by aquavert featuring oxford shoes

Not exactly the same, but I think a simple sash belt and matching peter pan collar is a piece of cake. I'm not sure I would add the contrast color to the button area, but more than likely would. The breast pocket flaps- no. I don't need more attention called to that area! As for the colors, Rose Smoke and French Roast! I think a beautiful fabric with a delicate design in those colors would be simple for me to match in my closet. Matching accessories like a (handmade!!) chunky cable sweater, fedora or felt hat, black tights and flats.

As of right now I have the sewing pattern from the last set-- so I'm really excited about that. Considering I have a lot of sewing projects going on, I won't be making that soon... but probably starting in September I'll start picking away at these ideas.

Completed Sewing Project: SpringGreen Dress

It's done! Three weeks from my initial posting about this dress, it's finally completed and ready for a day out on the town!

First off, yes, yellow. Yellow was my backup color after hunting high and low for mint green swiss dot fabric. When I found plenty of pale yellow fabric and matching lace... I took it as a sign. Even if it's completely off from my croqui and from my original idea (and the NAME!), I'm still super pleased with it.

Completed Sewing Project: Petticoat

At long last, the petticoat I spoke of weeks ago... is finally completed!

The Facts

Start Date: April 2012

Finish Date: May 19, 2012

Fabric: 100% Polyester Lining, Tulle, 100% Polyester Lace

Pattern: Loosely based of the petticoat pattern in various Gosu Rori magazines + Inspired by Baby the Stars Shine Bright standard petticoat

Year: Contemporary-ish.

Notions: 1" wide standard elastic

Time to Complete: Completely lost track, but on and off for three weeks

First Worn: Haven't yet!

Wear again?: It was made to replace my old sad petticoats... so yes!

Total Price: 2y tulle at 1$p/y, 4y of lace for 3.50$ p/y: 16$ 

Changes from original Plan: PLENTY! Looking at the pattern I drafted, it has some serious changes and I will probably have to redraft some pieces in case I'd like to make another in the future. 

Favorite Blogs of the Moment.

For the long commute back and forth to work I have a lovely little RSS feeder installed in my phone. It's awesome because it caches entire posts (including pictures) so while I'm in the tunnels here in SF, I have something to read when the signal cuts out! Regardless of all that, here are the blogs I'm loving right now.

Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing

I discovered this blog while trying to figure out how to do a FBA on a pattern top and I absolutely love it. The things she sews and her articles are all extremely interesting and I'm really looking forward to her book coming out in September! Maybe it'll be a birthday present to myself? Also, learning couture sewing techniques will be great if I ever make a Chanel-style jacket! Gotta learn how to quilt a lining!

Madame Guillotine

I think I found this blog looking for images for a report but damn- absolutely love it. The blog owner is a self published historical fiction author and major history buff. I particularly love the posts about random people in history that you may not have known about. The paintings and historical research is absolutely luscious and the posts about costumes and garments are amazing. And a huge Versailles lover-- how can I not adore that?

Sea of Shoes

This blog always has such great fashion eye-candy! A couple semesters ago one of my teachers recommended her fashion site and it's really fun to see all the great posts Jane Aldridge posts about her style, travels, and purchases. I would only wear maybe half of what she does, but I think her posts are fun. I laughed aloud the other day when I was reading an issue of 7x7 and saw Jane as the model for a Barney's New York ad! 

A Future Present

Etsy featured a scarf by Leah Goren in one of their articles and I was intrigued enough by the beautiful textile to look into the artist. The blog is actually a combination of both Leah and her husband(?)/boyfriend Dylan and their life together. The posts are always picture filled and beautiful. It's very inspirational! I wish my boyfriend would want to blog with me!

Cat Versus Human

To be honest, I completely forget how I stumbled on this blog! But it's so fun! The owner lives here in the Bay Area and the cartoons are absolutely hilarious! As a cat lady deprived of a cat, I live vicariously through the different little comic strips she posts. Anyone I show them to always laugh! One of these days when I have a little extra cash, I want to get one of her tote bags to cart all my art supplies in. Probably this one.

Swigglies and Wigglies and All Sorts of Circles.

I had a moment of clarity yesterday that I really need to get on working on my personal collections + portfolio, like... ASAP. Between school things picking up and work taking a crazy turn for me, I just feel like I need to get on it and start producing things at home. I can do this, I can do this, I can do this.

My goal right now for my portfolio is to create a Spring/Summer 2012 textile collection, due by May 1 (holding myself accountable!) My inspiration is a mixture of Polish pottery as well as Pysany eggs.

I love how bright and geometric everything is! I think they're all very charming and I can't wait to explore these designs and their history!

I've all ready started practicing some of the motifs and drawing some designs.

I probably don't have to watermark... but I figure that maybe I should start getting into the habit. Don't know. Maybe!

My plan of attack is as follows: 

• Look at more pots and more eggs. Haha- yes.
• Draw some more thumbnails
• Finalize said thumbnails
• Make 10x10in paintings of each pattern (watercolor, gauche, marker? Hmph...)
• Get my printing on 

I think I just need to approach this a little more professionally than I have been lately, but I'm confident I can get it together. For a spring/summer collection I'll be looking into linen and light polyesters and ahhhh- I can't wait to get started! Considering how I'm practicing croquis drawings right now, I might be able to do some rendering for how I would like each print used-- and who knows, maybe I can do something with the prints? Don't know. We'll see. 

When it comes down to it, I'm just happy to get started.