New Project: Watercolor Blues Dress

Project Title: Watercolor Blues Dress
Short Project Description: White and Blue JSK with matching boucle bolero.
Projected Deadline: March 31st
Pattern(s) Used: For the JSK, the bodice pattern from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing "Sultry Sheath", rectangle skirt. For the bolero, Simplicity 1780
Materials Needed: JSK: White with blue undertone fabric with a beautiful drape, dark blue satin for bow + cartridge ruffle trim + under trim, underlining fabric, white satin for cartridge trim. Bolero: light blue + white boucle. Sew in or iron-on pearls, standard notions.
Challenges/Obstacles: This one will most certainly be an uphill battle! Not to say that's a bad thing--- just that I'm absolutely certain that this dress is going to be a big one. I don't expect to find the right shades of fabric right away and will probably have to just worry about one piece at a time. I think the white dress fabric will probably be the most difficult to source. I'm looking for something with a solid, but beautiful drape with cool undertones... which are hard to look at in a fabric store if it doesn't have good lighting. The colors I'm looking for are more viewable in my Pinterest board dedicated to brainstorming on the dress~ you can check that out here.

I may end up settling for something white with a silver-ish brocade finish. The ruffles aren't hard, just time consuming, even with a ruffling foot. Also, lots of hand sewing in my future with a design incorporating pearl beading. The bolero is more of an after thought, I think... It would be a great addition to just my normal ward robe so I haven't decided the length of it yet. Plus I've never worked with something as un-ravelry as boucle, so it'll be interesting. That will need it's own lining and learning new finishing techniques as well.

I actually have quite a few things on my plate right now, so this is one of those projects I just want to work on with no pressure. I really would like to make myself at least two new pencil skirts (like my Speckled Skirt) for work and general use--- while working on this dress set. I also have some things I'm whipping up for the Etsy shop. The March 31st deadline is a good one because that gives me plenty of time to hand sew everything in and actually feel like I've redeemed myself from my Falling into Autumn disaster! I know quite a few people really liked that one, but I know I can do better and I've learned so many new techniques that will make the issues I had seem like a thing of the past...!

Completed: That Speckled Skirt + New Blouse

The skirt turned out surprisingly well, I'm happy to report. My new-found craving for learning couture sewing techniques has really driven me to expect nothing but excellence in hand sewing (time permitting)-- holding myself to a higher standard, you know? Granted, my hand stitching is still not the absolute best, but I'm determined to get there (eventually).

That Speckled Skirt Update #1

Taking my time much?

I'm actually really happy that I am taking my sweet time with this project. The last thing I need is to be stressed out about something I should be heartily enjoying. I bought the fabric days before I posted about it here-- and have just barely started cutting yesterday.

Cutting is actually my least favorite part of sewing (and from what I hear about others, many agree). It's boring and tedious and never seems to end. It didn't help that for the longest it would be a laborious process of sweeping and moping the wooden floor of the kitchen and having to crawl around on my hands and knees. And then the cuts would be warped because of this! I have a kitchen table now--- and it helps A LOT.

The toile fitting went surprisingly well! I knew within a couple minutes of trying it on that the pattern fit me correctly and I wouldn't have to do very many changes. My 5'3" petite frame poses a lot of fitting issues and I'm SO HAPPY I had to do only ONE change: narrow the bottom hem.

Having chicken legs means that most pencil skirts fit me like a straight cylinder. Curvaceous fit? I can only dream that about RTW!

Either way, I took in the pattern about 4" on the bottom hem and even then it's just BARELY starting to look more "shapely". I'm telling you- chicken legs!

I've cut out the fashion fabric and am about to work on the interlining (which in after thought, I should have done first...!)

Either way, slow and steady wins the race. I think this pace is making sure I'm not stressed out or angry when I'm sewing and that's better in the long run when I start freaking out over mismatched seams and whatnot.

Still haven't gotten my seam binding and I suspect I need to buy more interfacing for the waist band, but all in due time, I suppose.

New Project: That Speckled Skirt

I'm very excited to start working on this skirt! I'm very aware that the skirt is going to be "straight forward"-- in some techniques. But certainly not all, I will say.

New techniques I'm trying:

• Underlining
• Lapped zipper
• Slip stitch
• Sewing with seam binding

It took a little digging around at a local fabric warehouse, but I found my fabrics! The teal is my underlining and the fabric on the bottom seems to be a wool-blend that is actually black with white speckles. It's classic without looking too "suit-y". I also ordered some neutral, warm colored seam binding from Etsy-- and wow, what a great set of colors are available for this stuff! I'll probably use the lightest color for this particular project.

This skirt requires a single button to tie up the back of the waist band and I'm actually really torn as to which I'm going to use! I know that sounds lame, but after lamenting not having enough buttons a few months back, now I have quite a collection!

5$ button grab bags at Britex Fabrics? Oh yes. I've gone in twice now in the last few months and bought two bags each time... and I'll just say it took me at least two hours to sort them all and get them properly stored by color! 

The button in the foreground, the off-white one with the 4 black hairline lines? That's the one I'm thinking for this project-- it'll match my seam binding! But who knows? Maybe I'll swing by Britex again before I finish the skirt and come home with more buttons to decide between.

But first up, toile (which I'd like to start using instead of muslin- so much more classy!). I've traced my pattern all ready but we'll see how the first version comes out. I all ready have a feeling I may need to move a dart or two around...

Completed Project: Falling into Autumn Dress

Finally. It's finally done!

Ya, I'm Into High Class Stuff.

This past week a huge tent has been erected in the middle of Union Square down here in San Francisco  for an amazing event: Le Festival des Métiers, A Rendez-Vous with Hermès Craftsmen.

My mind was blown.

Now, I'm a fan of Hermès, but this event really threw them to the top of my list of inspiring métiers. I knew what they did, how they did it, and the general mentality of how they view their craft. But seeing it in person? Amazing. I was honestly taken aback by the artistry and the craftsmanship. And let's just be honest: I know that the brand is expensive and super famous and they're HIGH FASHION, but that isn't what attracts me to it. It's the fact that it's a small company and everything is made using the traditional techniques they've been using for over a hundred years. That tradition is so much more of an allure to me-- I can only hope to aspire to be a part of that sort of legacy!

Each button hole is made by hand by a sharpened tool. It takes 12 minutes to sew EACH button hole by hand. Most of the buttons pictured above are mother of pearl that has been hand dyed. Watching this seamstress work was super interesting. She said she'd been working with Hermès for over 25 years and had been sewing couture for years before she started with the company. The buttons she was sewing on had "H" designs on them... it takes 6 button holes to sew in that design.

Voting With Your Wallet.

In a non-hippy way, I've recently decided that I would really like to start being even more conscious about my purchasing power and as the saying goes, "vote with my wallet!" Both of my plans of attack are pretty standard and people might just say "duh" to-- but frankly, it's a departure of how people normally behave.

New Clothes? No such thing!

l to r: BurdaStyle #119, BurdaStyle #131, BurdaStyle #114, McCall's 6555

First off, I've made the decision to not buy anything new when it comes to garments, my exception being undergarments and (MAYBE) higher end goods. It's honestly a combination of things that really add to this resolution:

• I feel guilty when I buy from big box stores. As much as I love the cute looks marched out of H&M, Target, and Forever 21, I just feel guilty about the entire thing. Yes, that cute blouse might be 15$ on clearance and fits me so well... I just don't want it. Not only is it not always ethically made, but being decently versed in textiles and construction, it's easy to tell when something isn't made properly. 
• Half the time, RTW doesn't even fit me properly. I have to get things tailored to fit me correctly and it's not worth it for a 15$ blouse that will fall apart after a few months.
• I'd like to transform my closet into vintage, second hand, and handmade. It gives me an excuse to flex my sewing skills and become a better seamstress. It allows me to have garments made for ME that fit my large bust, petite frame, and oddly shaped body. Having made a few garments in the last couple months, I can say with confidence that the clothes I made specifically for me are the ones I love the most and feel the most comfortable in. 
• With my exceptions, let's face it, making underwear and pantyhose is stressful and I can honestly say that it's not my priority. I will concede that for now. Though to say I make custom lingerie would be amazing! And as for higher end goods, well, they're higher end. If I buy a dress from Oscar de la Renta, a trench coat from Burberry, or scarf from Alexander McQueen, I know I'm paying top dollar for something made with amazing construction and attention to detail. As for a Chanel jacket... I want to make one inspired by the traditional look- though it'd also be fun to own a real one.

Of course, there are always exceptions to any of my above ideas. Neiman Marcus is teaming up with Target for a collaboration in December that I'm actually looking forward to. I just find, however, that the only reason I have shopped in the past at any of the lower-end retailers is because I needed something on the fly, not necessarily because I wanted to shop there specifically. With better planning, a fast sewing foot, and better construction techniques, I can make my own. 

Natural Nom Noms

I can't be vegetarian or vegan. It's not necessarily stubbornness-- it's just that I love cheese, love milk, and the taste of chicken and beef. I understand the ethical concerns for animals that are out there- I get it, and I sympathize with the plight of poor piggies being stuck in terrible cages and drugged up like there's no tomorrow. But if the animal is treated correctly, leads a happy life, and is killed in a decent way, I have no problem with eating it. Food chain and all that.

I guess the reason I say "natural" is because I'm trying to make a better effort at acknowledging and keeping track of what I actually eat on a day to day. I've started making more and more handmade goodies-- from scones to pancakes to pizza. The crockpot my dad gave me is being put to use. I am trying to buy less processed goods-- I actually want to know what's in the food I'm eating.

On that same token, I'm also slowly starting to switch to organic. I'm well aware that it's going to take time and money; I figure with a steady transition, it won't be as shocking, though. Organic lettuce, grapes, blueberries, carrots, and even oatmeal. It's not much and everything so far has fit into my budget. I think once I just become more used to it, it should be simple for me. Either way, it gives me an excuse to make more homemade treats with great ingredients.