Wow- this pattern is all ready starting to perplex me! Not to say that tracing the pattern out is difficult at all-- and not even the sewing, so far! It's the fit.
Before the end of the semester last week, I made sure to have a go-over with the pattern and my sewing instructor. She confirmed most of the changes I was planning on making (reassuring!)-- as well as suggested sizes and where to edit. The areas covered were:
- The Waist. Need to use the biggest size and add on an inch or so.
- The Neckline. Besides the bust, I have a petite frame and the neckline always seems to gape on me.
- The Armholes. My shoulders aren't very tall (see comment about neckline!)
All of the above changes are undoubtedly easier said than done!
After doing the only big sewing alteration I'm pretty sure I can't botch, I went to work and sewed up Muslin Sample #1. Pictures are as follows and well-- I cropped it to hide the foopa but damn it, I will not be intimidated!
I'm not going to lie: at this point, it looks like a bib on me. What I noticed right off the bat was that I would definitely have to shorten the bodice at the top. The bottom portion sort of "fits" but by taking out at least an inch at the shoulders, the bust area sorted itself out and I'm happy to say I won't have to do a FBA.
You can also see in the top picture that the neckline was gaping... and in the bottom picture the back kind of gathers up unflatteringly- as if I was tucking my shirt in. I figure, the first thing to tackle, besides the shoulder height, will be the neckline... I can worry about the backpiece later which isn't blatantly terrible; the wrinkle seems like it can easily be fixed with the corresponding skirt piece which can weigh it down. Or a bigger dart- probably a bigger dart.
Better. Not perfect, but better. After trying darts from the neckline as was originally proposed by my instructor, I tried creating a dart from the shoulder and found that it killed two birds with one stone: It radically helped the neckline and also pulled in the extra fabric at the sleeve. This picture doesn't do justice to the neckline, though, which fits nearly perfectly now. I have to research the proper way to translate this to my pattern, but at least I know where I'd like to take it in.
You can also see in the picture that I will have to add an extra inch or so in the waist just for comfort... it fit fine and wasn't uncomfortable, but I'd like to line the bodice and not struggle with the zipper placement later on. So at the very least 3/4" needs to be added.
And this is where I am. I have a lot of research to do in terms of fixing the shoulder dart, the arm holes, and maybe some investigation for the extra fabric in the back. I'm thinking I will probably have to do some Petite size adjustments first before I settle on anything, though. We'll see what turns up for my next muslin sample. I'm planning on buying the fabric I'd like to use today and at least laundering it while I spend more time fixing this bodice. Hopefully it's looking more decent in round two.